Bread & Butter Page 8
zucchini latkes
Stovetop frying is an art form, the short-order cook at your local diner an artist of the highest calling. It took me a few dozen tries before I learned how to make them exactly the same each time, but it was a much-savored victory! (Pro tip: It’s a difficult lesson, but try to avoid fussing with the pancake too much once it is in the pan.)
makes 6
2 medium zucchini, shredded
1 teaspoon salt
½ cup (70 GRAMS) Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon xanthan gum
¼ teaspoon paprika
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) rice milk
1 scallion, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons (42 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.
In a medium bowl, combine the zucchini and the salt. Let sit for 20 minutes to extract some water.
In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, xanthan gum, and paprika. Add the rice milk and, using a rubber spatula, stir until a thick batter forms.
Drain the zucchini and, using 2 folded paper towels, press the zucchini firmly to remove any excess liquid. Add the drained zucchini to the batter and, using a rubber spatula, fold in the scallions. Season with pepper.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Using a ¼-cup measuring cup, scoop 2 measures of the batter onto the pan. Cook the latkes until the bottom is browned, 2½ minutes. Flip the latkes and cook until the second side is browned, 2 minutes. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining batter.
Put the latkes in the oven and bake until crisp, 8 minutes. Let stand on the baking sheet for 3 minutes before serving.
flour tortillas
For whatever reason, a homemade tortilla remains a rare indulgence. Maybe this is because the store-bought varieties rank among the very few things that are believed to be entirely adequate. Maybe. But then you have a homemade tortilla and things are suddenly completely different. Tortillas are not mere vehicles for beans and vegetables and salsa (though that is a noble calling). Done right, they are almost dessert-like. They are small but weighty. When you place them in the pan they bloom poetically. Eaten warm, on their own, they offer a faint sweetness and a delicate texture that will have you questioning your entire Mexican food–eating history.
makes 12
1¼ cups (125 GRAMS) gluten-free oat flour
1 cup (120 GRAMS) arrowroot
¾ cup (144 GRAMS) potato starch
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) vegan sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
3 tablespoons (42 GRAMS) Butter, softened
¾ cup (168 GRAMS) room-temperature rice milk
½ cup (113 GRAMS) room-temperature coconut milk
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, arrowroot, potato starch, sugar, salt, baking powder, and xanthan gum. Measure in the butter and work it in by hand, kneading gently. Add the milks and knead until a sticky dough forms. You may need to add a splash or two of water to get the dough wet enough so it binds together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unwrap it, and divide it into 12 equal-size balls. Roll each ball flat between 2 pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper until each tortilla is about ⅛ inch thick (they puff up quite a bit, so do a test with one tortilla to determine how thick you prefer them).
Heat ½ teaspoon of the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Put a tortilla into the skillet and cook until it starts to puff up, about 45 seconds. Flip the tortilla and cook until the second side is browned, 30 more seconds. Transfer the tortilla to a plate, cover with a dish towel, and repeat the process with the remaining tortillas and oil.
corn tortillas
There’s one strict rule here: You must use masa harina corn flour. (Our life-partner-in-baking, Bob’s Red Mill, makes an outstanding version, which can be found in most reputable grocery stores.) Regular corn flour will not do, and neither will cornmeal. My version of these tortillas plays heavily on that salted corn flavor I love so much. If that bothers you, dropping the salt will not affect the outcome.
makes 6
2 cups (230 GRAMS) masa harina
1 teaspoon salt
1¼ cups (282 GRAMS) lukewarm water
1 tablespoon (14 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
In a medium bowl, combine the masa harina, salt, and lukewarm water until a thick dough forms. If the dough is too dry, add 1 tablespoon warm water at a time until it comes together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it sit on the counter for 30 minutes.
Divide the dough into 6 equal-size balls. Between 2 pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper, roll each ball flat until the tortilla is very thin, about ⅛ inch thick.
Heat ½ teaspoon of the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Put a tortilla in the skillet and cook until it starts to puff up, about 45 seconds. Flip the tortilla and cook until the second side is browned, 30 more seconds. Transfer the cooked tortilla to a plate, cover with a dish towel, and repeat the process with the remaining tortillas and oil.
ideas for your tortillas
Here are two ideas for how to use your tortillas.
Chilaquiles: Quarter 6 Corn Tortillas and set aside. Heat ¼ cup melted unscented coconut oil in a skillet set over medium-high heat. Add the tortilla pieces and cook until lightly golden, about 1 minute per side. Remove and drain on a paper towel. Pour 1 cup of your favorite salsa (enchilada sauce works well, too, as does anything in the Cholula family) into the same skillet and heat for 1 minute. Add the chips to the pan, mix them together with the sauce until each one is coated, and cook for 1 minute more. Transfer the chilaquiles to a plate, sprinkle a pinch of shredded vegan cheese on top, and serve hot.
Cinnamon-Sugar Chips: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. Place 6 Flour Tortillas on a work surface; spread each with 1 tablespoon (14 grams) Butter, then sprinkle with 2 teaspoons vegan sugar and a pinch of cinnamon-sugar. Cut the tortillas into triangles and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until crispy and golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Serve warm.
flatbread
This bread is soft and pillowy and versatile and gets so photogenically blistered in a hot pan that you’ll have guests awestruck at your wizardry. I left the flavors open for you to explore, so you can mix and match with whichever herbs and spices you prefer. I’ve often seen restaurants brush it with olive oil and toss it in an oregano mixture, and it works well—just do that before you begin cooking it. Or! Do you like naan? If you add two teaspoons baking soda with your dry ingredients, you will have naan.
makes 8
½ cup (70 GRAMS) Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour
¾ cup (75 GRAMS) gluten-free oat flour
½ cup (60 GRAMS) arrowroot
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) vegan sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ cup (120 GRAMS) coconut milk
2 tablespoons (28 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil, plus more for the skillet
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, arrowroot, sugar, salt, xanthan gum, and baking powder. Pour in the coconut milk and the 2 tablespoons oil and, using a rubber spatula, stir until a thick dough forms. If the dough is too dry, add water one splash at a time.
Scoop a heaping golf ball–size portion of dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap. Place another sheet of plastic wrap over the top and roll the dough into a rectangle about ¼ inch thick. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Heat about 1 teaspoon oil in a wide skillet set over med
ium heat. Put the dough into the skillet and cook until the bottom is browned and bubbles form on the top, 1½ minutes. Flip it over and cook for 2 more minutes. Transfer the bread to a plate. Repeat the process until all of the dough is cooked, preparing one at a time.
Serve warm.
ethiopian bread
Before I created this recipe, I was a complete amateur with teff flour. I’ve learned that it is fairly delicate compared with the other flours I use, but the flavor is outstanding. If you allow the dough to sit overnight (at least), it will ferment into a completely unique tangy tartness, almost like a sourdough. If your bread is coming out too crisp, add a quarter cup of flour to give it some volume.
makes 8
1½ cups (180 GRAMS) teff flour
2 cups (452 GRAMS) water
2 tablespoons (14 GRAMS) ground flaxseed (flax meal)
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon (14 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
In a medium bowl, whisk together the teff flour and water. Cover with a dish towel and let it sit on the countertop for at least 24 hours. The next day, stir in the ground flaxseed, baking soda, and salt.
Heat 1 teaspoon of the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Scoop ⅓ cup of the batter into the pan and tilt the pan to spread the batter evenly. Cook until the top of the batter begins to bubble and dry slightly, 1 minute. Flip the bread and cook the second side about 1 more minute. Transfer to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter and oil as needed until all the bread is cooked. Serve immediately.
puff pastry and beyond
As you know, puff pastry has thousands of absolutely beautiful uses, both savory and sweet, from tarts to pot pies; almost all great cuisines have many uses for it. The recipes that follow utilize vegetables left in their savory states, even if deep in their hearts some may want to be desserts.
Much like the BabyCakes pie dough, the puff pastry I make is fairly forgiving (more than we can say for yours, France!). You can rip off the ends if they’re hanging over weirdly, or else break off a piece here to fill in a patch there. It may turn out that these mistakes are your favorite part of the final dish: Puff-pastry patchwork creates the occasional crunchy knuckle of crust that everyone loves to nibble on so much.
all-purpose puff pastry dough VEGETABLE POT PIE potato and leek tart
ONION AND CURED BLACK OLIVE TART fennel, spinach, and leek crostata MUSHROOM TURNOVERS
all-purpose puff pastry dough
I gained seven pounds in pursuit of this recipe. I don’t regret it. (Though I’m thankful to have solved its riddle before my pants situation got seriously out of control.)
makes 1¼ pounds
2 cups (280 GRAMS) Bob’s Red Mill Gluten-Free All-Purpose Baking Flour
½ cup (50 GRAMS) gluten-free oat flour
1¼ cups (150 GRAMS) arrowroot
⅓ cup (70 GRAMS) vegan sugar
2 teaspoons salt
2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
2 teaspoons xanthan gum
1 teaspoon baking powder
1¾ cups (420 GRAMS) room-temperature coconut milk
½ cup (112 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (252 GRAMS) chilled Butter
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flours, arrowroot, sugar, salt, yeast, xanthan gum, and baking powder. Pour in the coconut milk and oil and, using a rubber spatula, stir until a thick dough forms. If the dough is too dry, add lukewarm water 1 tablespoon at a time. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Put the dough and the butter into a food processor and pulse until the dough is freckled with quarter-size pieces of butter. Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 1 more hour.
Between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll out the dough into the desired shape.
Bake in a preheated 375°F oven (the amount of time will change based on the filling).
there is no such thing as extra puff pastry dough
Obviously I am taking issue with the word extra. Can you have “extra” pastry dough? If it’s not the exact perfect amount, it isn’t enough! So let’s rephrase: I intentionally created the recipes for Croissants and for All-Purpose Puff Pastry Dough to leave you with some “bonus” dough to store in the freezer. Here are some things you could try as your frozen collection amasses over time.
Salted Chocolate Tartlets: Mold the pastry dough into the pan of your choosing (mini muffin pan, maybe?). Bake in a 350°F preheated oven for 20 minutes. Let cool. Over a double boiler, melt 2 cups (480 grams) vegan semisweet chocolate chips and slowly swirl in ⅓ cup (75 grams) coconut milk. Pour the chocolate mixture into the pastry shells, top with coarse salt, and let the tartlets harden for 1 hour before serving.
Apple Strudel: Chop 3 apples of any variety into ¼-inch cubes and toss with sugar, agave nectar, or coconut sugar and a dash of cinnamon. Mold the pastry dough into a baking dish and add the apple mixture. Bake in a 350°F preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes and let cool for 30 minutes before serving.
Pop Tarts: Roll the dough out into a 16-inch rectangle and trim the edges. Cut the rectangle into 3 × 4-inch rectangles. Fill half of the rectangles with 1 tablespoon each of your preferred jam, leaving a ½-inch border. Brush the edges with agave nectar, and then place a second rectangle on top. Using a fork, seal the edges. Bake in a 350°F preheated oven for 15 minutes. Let cool on the baking sheet for 5 minutes, and serve.
vegetable pot pie
This thing is, like, the anti-cupcake. Big and hearty—macho, even. Maybe you have your own ideas for how to fill the pie; I can dig that. As long as the crust is done right and your filling ingredients aren’t massively out of proportion, you can really tinker to your heart’s content and it will taste great.
serves 6
¼ cup (56 GRAMS) melted Butter, plus more for brushing the baking dish
1 cup (150 GRAMS) cubed potatoes
½ small yellow onion, chopped
½ cup (64 GRAMS) cubed carrots
1 celery stalk, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
½ cup (82 GRAMS) fresh corn or thawed frozen corn
2 tablespoons (15 GRAMS) arrowroot
1 cup (88 GRAMS) broccoli florets
1 cup (100 GRAMS) cauliflower florets
1 cup (67 GRAMS) roughly chopped stemmed kale
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ recipe All-Purpose Puff Pastry Dough
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves
Leaves from 1 sprig rosemary
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Add the potatoes, onion, carrots, celery, and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the corn and arrowroot and cook for 3 more minutes.
In a large pot, bring 2 quarts water to a boil. Add the broccoli, cauliflower, and kale. Reduce the heat to low and simmer the vegetables until they soften, 8 minutes. Drain the vegetables, transfer them to a large bowl, and press out any excess water with paper towels. Add the potato mixture to the bowl and then add the sage, rosemary, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Using a rubber spatula, stir together gently and allow to cool for 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Brush a baking dish with butter.
Roll out the chilled pastry between 2 sheets of parchment into a 12½ by 9-inch rectangle, about ⅛ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper and mold the pastry to fit the shape of the baking dish. Pour the vegetable mixture into the baking dish and cover with the pastry dough. Using a paring knife, score the top of the dough in 4 or 5 places. Brush the top with the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.
Bake for 15 minutes, and then rotate the baking dish 180 degrees. Bake until golden and bubbling, 10 minutes. Let the pot pie cool for 10 minutes before serving.
potato and leek tart
Potato and leek is one of the truly great flavor combinations in cooking. Until n
ow I haven’t had much cause to use it. I sometimes use this recipe to make tartlets because (a) they are cute and (b) I tend to snack compulsively, but it’s really most practical as one big happy tart, whether for dinner or brunch.
serves 8
1 tablespoon (14 GRAMS) melted unscented coconut oil
2 leeks (light green and white parts only), thinly sliced
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
2 red potatoes, chopped
Leaves from 2 sprigs rosemary
½ recipe All-Purpose Puff Pastry Dough, or ½ recipe dough for Croissants or Spelt Croissants
Heat the oil in a wide skillet set over medium heat. Add the leeks, salt, and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the leeks are slightly browned, 5 minutes. Fold in the potatoes and cook for 7 minutes or until the potatoes are golden brown. Sprinkle in the rosemary and remove from the heat and allow to cool for 15 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set a 9-inch tart mold on top.
Between 2 pieces of parchment paper, roll out the chilled dough into a circle ¼ inch thick. Remove the parchment paper, transfer the dough to the tart pan, and softly push it into the mold. Cut off the excess dough that hangs over the side and save for another use. Pour the potato-leek mixture into the tart and spread evenly.